Wines News & People
A Pair of Morellinos
Commentary by Daniel Lim. Images by Jeri Soh of Jericho Photography (Singapore).
Singapore – Located on the 52nd floor of Singapore’s commercial building, Capital Tower, The China Club, founded in May 2001, is an elegant, members-only, Chinese restaurant with impeccable prompt food and wine service, and meticulously prepared food in a nostalgic old Chinese Shanghai setting and a beautiful view of Singapore’s skyline.
Winemaker and owner: Alberto Tanzini (Roccapesta)
Importer and Passionate Italian wine Evangelist: Juliana Benelli (Autoctonous)
Wine: 2006 Roccapesta Morellino di Scansano
Wine: 2006 Calestaia Morellino di Scansano Riserva
As an aspiring wine writer, we are appreciative for the access to evaluate good to premium wines. On this occasion at The China Club, we met Juliana Benelli (seen above) whom spearheads Autoctonous Fine Wines, a boutique wine importer exporting to Singapore and Beijing, Shanghai in China. Autoctonous customer base counts private clients, with major examples such as the Singapore Island Country Club, to The Polo Club and western styled restaurants.
On the topic of introducing Roccapesta wine, Juliana said “People may be bored with French wine, not because Italian wines are necessarily cheaper, but they are becoming better quality”. “We may compete with other wines, but not on price. Roccapesta is a boutique estate, completely different, while China is an affluent market, I believe they will be receptive to us.” Roccapesta winemaker and owner Alberto goes on to reinforce “We are of the best Sangiovese makers in Italy’s Morellino di Scansano, and these wines are a good example“.
The Italian wine region, Morellino di Scansano comes from a village called Scansano, situated on a mountain ridge in the heart of Maremma, which is an area in the southernmost part of Tuscany; far south of Chianti, south of Montalcino.
The region is host to long, hot growing seasons allowing grapes to fully ripen with high sugar levels and in turn produce wines rich in fruit and solid in structure. In other words: the hotter, the better. When you consider that very good wines come from Chianti in the north of Tuscany, and deeper, richer Brunello wines come from the more southern town of Montalcino, you can begin to understand the potential of vines grown in Scansano: the deep, deep south and at competitive prices too. And the potential is already beginning to be realized, as some of the top Chianti and “Super Tuscan” producers are buying into the area with plans to bottle the next great cult wines.
The wine, which was granted DOC status in 1978, was upgraded to DOCG status from the 2007 vintage is made from at least 85% Sangiovese, and remaining 0-15% can comprise from native grape sources.
Relatively new, Roccapesta is fronted by ex-financial consultant turned owner and winemaker, Alberto Tanzini. Alberto owned Roccapesta since 2003 and is today assisted by co-owner Leonardo Tanzini, Margareta, with Oenelogists Andrea Paoletti, Laura Bernini, and Daniel Schuster. Together, this team oversees 15 hectares of vineyards where they are planted with 90% Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo, Malvasia nera, Pugnitello, Alicante, Petit Verdot, and Syrah. 90% of Roccapesta’s production is exported, with major customers from the United Kingdom and Switzerland. Autoctonous represents them in Singapore and the Greater China region. For more information, please see www.autoctonous.com or www.roccapesta.it.
Roccapesta is seeking distribution and trade partners in Singapore and China. The normale Morellino di Scansano is marketed (Wholesale prices) at S$ 33.00 (HK$ 166.00, RMB 146.00) with the Riserva at S$ 52.00 (HK$ 262.00, RMB 230.00).
2006 Roccapesta Morellino di Scansano (Italy, Tuscany, Maremma)
14.5%. 96% Sangiovese, and 4% Ciliegiolo. 50% wine lays for 12 months in French oak, with 50% in cement tanks. Additional 6 months in bottle before release. 2,500 cases made annually.
Relatively new, with toast, sweet black currant mingled with red berry on the nose. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, firm with medium acidity and tannin, with accompanying sweet red berry flavors and a silk light mouth feel. Dry quick finish. Best from 2009 to 2012. 12/20 Tasted: March 2009.
2006 Calestaia Morellino di Scansano Riserva (Italy, Tuscany, Maremma)
100% Sangiovese first planted in the 1970s, 2 years in French oak, 1 year in bottle before release. 666 cases made yearly.
Intense with glinting reflections of vanilla, chocolate coffee, incense, backed by dense red and black berry aromas and light spice notes. Full-bodied, buffeted by a firm acidity, dry tannins giving some finesse and flavored further with red berries and a medium peppery finish. Enjoyable. Best from 2010 to 2018. 14/20 Tasted: March 2009.